One of the all-time biggest frustrations is discovering the great pictures you took underwater look like they were taken while it was snowing. All those opaque, white circles of different sizes are known as backscatter.
Okay fine you say, but what are they doing in my photos – the water was clear? Actually water isn’t particularly clear, we just can’t make out the tiny particles suspended in it. These may be plankton or sand or any number of things that the camera is able to see really well, especially when lit up by the internal flash of your digital waterproof camera.
Now you’ve no doubt figured out that a flash is absolutely required to bring back color absorbed by the water, particularly the reds and yellows, and maybe also that you better get close to your subject for the same reason – that light won’t travel too far down into the ocean. So if the flash is required, but created the problem, what’s the solution?
First off, it was really the angle between the flash and the lens that caused an issue. Backscatter is caused by the flash reflecting off the particles then back into the camera lens, and becomes worse the closer the cameras internal flash is to the lens. It’s a real problem on the newer sub-compacts because the flash is often right next to the lens.
This is resolved through adding some distance between the flash and the lens by utilizing an external flash. Doing so won’t keep the reflection from taking place, but will increase the likelihood that the reflected light goes somewhere other than your camera lens.
A good way to start is to set up your external flash or strobe to where it will illuminate your subject from either the top or side. If you’re using dual strobes, you can reduce any shadows by distributing light from two directions. What you’re trying to achieve is to light up what you’re trying to photograph as opposed to the water between your digital underwater camera and subject.
As with most things some experimentation will be useful. You may want to try angling the strobes slightly outward where the light doesn’t rest right on the subject. Also, since it’s likely the suspended particles will be multi-faceted, not just flat, a wayward reflection could still cause a little backscatter. To deal with this a diffuser will help soften the light and get rid of the reflected direct light.
Aside from using an external flash, there are several other things you can do to lessen the chances that backscatter will be a concern. One is to get as close as possible to what you’re shooting. The less water between the camera and subject, the less particles. Also, backscatter is easier to see on solid backgrounds such as open water, so try to shoot in the direction of a busy background like a reef where backscatter won’t be so obvious.
Perfect your scuba skills so that you’re relaxed in the water and the added distraction of setting up or focusing on underwater camera equipment and taking pictures doesn’t preclude a dangerous situation like running out of air.
Of utmost importance is your ability to maintain proper buoyancy, not just for getting the shot, but to avoid damaging the reef in the process. Proper finning techniques and coming at your subjects from down-current will also make a big difference in not stirring up sand or silt.
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